If you’re spending at least two days and one night in Kyoto, and you want to check out all of the main sights (and some hidden gems) with minimal crowds, start here with this itinerary and follow my early bird itinerary the next day.
While this itinerary is meant to be followed if you arrive in Kyoto in the morning (dropping your luggage off at the hotel likely before check-in), it can just as well be followed later in the day as well. While you’ll be able to check many things off your list, the itinerary is meant to be enjoyed at a leisurely pace as you enjoy serene temples and nature.
I deliberated on writing this itinerary in the reverse order, but considering crowds and opening times, found this to be the best way to cover the most ground in relative peace. However, if you are intent on enjoying Kinkakuji (the last temple on the list) with minimal crowds, you might consider following this itinerary in reverse-order (but still leaving dinner at Pontocho last, of course).
Itinerary at a glance
10:30 am Philosopher’s Path
- Okazaki Coffee Shop
- Honen-in detour
11:30 am Ginkakuji [500 yen]
12:30 pm Lunch: Omen
- Off the Philosopher’s Path, just down the hill from Ginkakuji
1:30 pm Daitokuji [free to enter the grounds]
- Cab here from Omen
- Obai-in and Korin-in Temples
3:00 pm Kinkakuji [500 yen]
- Walk here from Daitokuji
4:00 pm Rest
7:00 pm Pontocho
Detailed Breakdown
10:30 am Philosopher’s Path
The Philosopher’s Path is a stone-paved walkway along a canal, and stretches from Nanzenji up to Ginkakuji. Although it may be famous for its cherry trees in the spring, it can be enjoyed any season (perhaps even more so, considering there may be fewer crowds).
While it’s possible to explore Nanzenji first (and I believe it should be open by 9:00 am), this is not something we did for this itinerary. If you decide to begin with the Philosopher’s Path, make sure it’s listed as “Beginning Philosopher’s Path” in your map lest you be directed to the middle.
To get there, you’ll most likely want to take the bus. If you take the number 5 to Nanzenji Eikandomichi, which is about 5 minutes away from the start of the path, consider dropping by Okazaki Coffee Shop on the way for a hot siphon coffee. Mr. Okazaki has been running his tiny shop for over fifty years if I remember our conversation correctly, and will even serve you coffee to go if you want. (There are even some trash cans along the path to dispose of your empty cups when you’re done.)
A leisurely stroll along the canal may take you 20 to 30 minutes, but you might consider making a quick detour at Honen-in about halfway through, which will be on the east side of the canal.
11:30 am Ginkakuji
The Silver Pavilion opens at 8:30 am or 9:00 am depending on the season, but at this time in April it wasn’t that crowded. There’s a number of small shops on the hill leading up to its entrance selling a variety of goods and souvenirs.
It costs 500 yen to get into the Ginkakuji grounds, which (like Kinkakuji later) includes a short trail through its gardens with different vantage points of the pavilion.
12:30 pm Lunch: Omen
A popular udon restaurant just down the hill from Ginkakuji and off the Philosopher’s Path. Omen now has locations around the world, but this Kyoto location is their mainstay. You can expect to wait in line a little to get in, but it’s worth the wait.
1:30 pm Daitokuji
While it’s possible to take the bus, a taxi cab will save you time and is an affordable option. You can find a taxi stand on Imadegawa-dori just up the street from Omen or down the hill from Ginkakuji, and it should only take you about 20 minutes to get to Daitokuji from there.
The grounds of Daitokuji are free to enter, but the individual temples charge admission. Overall, it’s a welcome respite from the growing crowds around the Philosopher’s Path. You can pick up a map at the entrance and chat with the attendant about any special showings.
When we visited in April, Obai-in was open to visitors, and you could purchase a combination ticket of Obai-in and Korin-in. While Korin-in had a simple and serene rock garden, and a lovely but small interior, Obai-in in particular was remarkable. It features a moss garden with a dry pond in the shape of a gourd, designed by the famous tea master Sen no Rikyu on the orders of Hideyoshi Toyotomi. This temple was easily the highlight of my trip. No photos were allowed here unfortunately (though they are allowed in other temples to varying extents), but their official website has some displayed here.
We wanted to visit Koto-in as well, which is known for its bamboo forest, but unfortunately it was closed.
3:00 pm Kinkakuji
Continuing eastward, Kinkakuji is about a 20 minute walk from Daitokuji. The streets you pass through aren’t particularly photogenic, but there are plenty of stores to peer into, and it’s nice to get a taste of city life beyond the temples.
By this time in mid-April, the Golden Pavilion was crowded with tourists, but they all tended to congregate toward the beginning of the trail to take photos as soon as the pavilion is visible. It was a strange juxtaposition of emotions: an appreciation of the Kinkakuji‘s beauty mixed with the frustration and unease of being caught in a crowd whose only interest is in taking pictures (and being one of them). You might try to visit earlier in the day if this is a priority for you in order to avoid the crowds, but at this time in mid-April, despite my earlier description, I didn’t find it to be too unbearable.
4:00 pm Rest
At this point, we took a bus back to our hotel to rest and prepare for dinner.
7:00 pm Pontocho
You might spend your first evening exploring the bustling Pontocho alley, which is lined with restaurants of all kinds. And if you still have the energy afterwards, head to the nearby Daimaru or Takashimaya department stores for some shopping. An evening stroll along Kiyamachi-dori by the canal south of Shijo Bridge may also suit your fancy, or perhaps you’d rather grab a drink at a conbini and enjoy it by the Kamo River. Then again, if you’re planning on following my early bird itinerary on day two – which can be done before it’s even time to check out – it might be best to head back to the hotel!
Leave a Reply